Fixing / Alleviating a warped glass bed
Recently there has been an influx of Sidewinder owners reporting warped glass beds on their new printers. While the majority are minor and just an inconvenience, some warps make it hard to print large parts across the whole surface. There are numerous methods to counter this, such as mesh bed leveling or adding a BLtouch, but I believe I have a good and simple fix to get rid of the severe warps. I've done it on a personal machine and had a customer replicate it on his warped bed and document the before and after results.
If you want a benchmark for improvement, I would first print this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4332789
First, level the four corners of your bed to the best of your ability, don't worry about the center point. After leveling, move your nozzle up and away from the bed. Heat your bed to 110C and let it sit for 5-6 hours. Keep the springs at the same tension as when leveled, don't try to loosen or tighten them. After completed, try the benchmark print again without re-leveling. You should see a considerable improvement. Here is a below and after for one of our customers:
If this doesn't work, Christopher Tobin, another active member in the Sidewinder community, has a method of his own.
"Loosen all 4 leveling wheels to the max without taking off. Heat bed to 80c for like 3-4 min, let cool all the way down to room temp and repeat a second time. Once complete, get your bed to about where you were leveling before and make sure your springs are compressed at least 50% or more then do a normal level at 60c temp. This should get rid of the bind and get things closer to even."
(He's a great guy, check out his YouTube channel here ;)
The goal behind both these methods is to soften the epoxy used to attach the screws, easing the binding and tension against the Y-plate. Did one of these methods work for you? Maybe not? Let us know! The bigger the sample size, the more informed we are about treating these types of problems.