Sidewinder X-1 Marlin 126.96.36.199 with MBL + TFT
Stepper Driver definitions
- Corrected Classic Jerk settings
- Marlin 188.8.131.52
- EEPROM enabled
- Thermal Runaway for Bed and Hotend Enabled
- Mesh Bed Leveling
- Classic Jerk
- Baby Stepping
- Linear Advance
- Enabled Quick Home
If homing includes X and Y, do a diagonal move initially rather than homing Axis individually
- Increased Bufsize
for printing over serial connections - this will help with printing via USB from the computer or Octoprint. - Tim from TH3D explains why I have made this change.
- PID Tune for Hotend and Bed
If you need help with flashing the firmware, there are guides linked below:
FYI, here is how I successfully programmed my X1 (V4) without opening its case from Windows 10 64 bits:
- Cut the power to your printer
- Connect its USB cable to your PC and check the COM port number it receives with the windows device manager (right click on the Windows logo)
- Install Avrdude from http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.16/doc/projects/ftsmin/avrdude-win-64bit.zip
(you can also get a newer version from the official website, but this version worked for me)
- Unzip it somewhere
- Copy the hex file to the avrdude directory
- Open a command shell and cd to the avrdude directory
- With the printer powered off and the USB cable disconnected, type the following command, replacing 'SX1A.hex' by the HEX filename, 'com6' by the COM port name assigned to the printer AND WITHOUT pressing ENTER:
avrdude -v -v -patmega2560 -cwiring -Pcom6 -b 115200 -D -Uflash:w:"./SX1A.hex":i
- Get ready to connect the USB cable (put the USB plug in front of the PC connector )
- Press ENTER on your keyboard and at the same time, plug the USB cable
- The programming should start. Let it run to an end.
- If it doesn't work, abort programming by pressing CTRL-C, disconnect the USB cable, press the UP key once and restart ant the "Press ENTER" step until it works...
I was just about to do this following the advice of the thread here. One point of confusion I have, though, is when downloading the linked firmware, do I want to use the compiled HEX or the source (bringing in to Arduino with the .ino file)?
The mentioned guide above seems to vary slightly form the actual process.